We headed south to Switzerland in early March for a ski trip to the Swiss Alps (my conference in Lausanne being the impetus for the trip). Our friend Art, another Fulbrighter in Norway, joined us for the adventure, as well as our friends Seth and Ellen, whom we met in Bermuda on their way home after a 3-year round the world sailing trip and now residents of Geneva.
We arrived in Geneva Airport where we got to check out the Nissan Leaf (all electric car) while waiting for our train.
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| Karl and Art checking out the Nissan Leaf electric car. |
We took the train to Sion (2 hours) and caught the bus up a steep narrow valley to Arolla (1 hour). Travel in Switzerland is certainly efficient! Arolla is a quaint mountain village near the end of a steep-sided box canyon. The elevation difference between the valley floor and surrounding ridges is about 1800 meters (or about 6000 feet). We stayed at the Hotel la Glacier with "half board" which includes room, dinner, and breakfast. Ellen and Seth met us in Arolla just as we finished up our breakfast.
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| Outside Hotel la Glacier in Arolla, Switzerland. |
After stocking up on bread, cheese, sausage, and chocolate (we are in Switzerland after all), we headed to the base area and the first of the 2 poma lifts that would take us up an incredible 1000 meters (3250 feet). Let me just emphasize what I've just written...2
surface lifts up over 3000 feet. This is not your typical ski resort. We rattled around 90 degree turns, up 40 degree pitches, and giggled our way up to the top.
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| The upper Arolla valley with surface lift in view. |
Our skin route set off from the upper lodge, where many were enjoying the sunshine while having a glass of wine, and up to a col.
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| On the skin up from Arolla to the col. |
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| The final tough steps up the col. |
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| At the top. |
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| Preparing to ski down the other side. |
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| Rachel skiing down from the col. |
Our route took us through some incredible terrain. The snow was quite nice and we had some really nice turns.
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| Art ripping it up on his tele skis. |
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| Ellen skiing down. |
Our destination for the day was the Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges hut. So now that we skied down a ways, we had to climb back up the other ridge.
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| Back up that way, says Art. |
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| Skinning up again (we'll ski back down this slope the following day). |
We arrived at the top of the ridge in the warm afternoon sunshine.
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| Seth and Ellen |
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| Art, Karl, and Rachel |
Now, we just need to find that hut...
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| On an overlook searching out the hut |
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| There it is! The Cabana des Aiguilles Rouges. |
We cruised down to the hut. We were the first guests of the season, the hut master having just opened it that day. However, people use the hut year round as it is partially open year round even when it isn't staffed. Happily, since it was now staffed, dinner and breakfast were included in our stay.
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| Arrival at Cabana les Aiguilles Rouges |
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| One of my favorite photos of Karl, overlooking the Alps. |
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| Reflections on Alpenglow |
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| Sun setting from the Aiguilles Rouges hut. |
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| Enjoying dessert of chocolate souffle (or maybe it was pudding) and a bottle of special label (of the hut) red wine. |
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| Morning light on Auiguilles Rouge hut. |
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| Outhouse cantilevered over a ledge. |
We decided on a morning tour up from the hut. It was a sunny Saturday, which meant there was a steady stream of skiers skinning up the valley. We certainly didn't have that feeling of isolation in the mountains that we experienced on the previous day.
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| A lone person crossing the glacier |
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| Karl skiing down - lovely snow |
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| Rachel enjoying turns in soft powder |
We made our way back to the hut, where we'd left our extra gear. As we arrived we caught sight of the helicopter taking off after leaving supplies for the hut.
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| In his exuberance, Art tumbled after a little air. |
We set off from the hut back to Arolla. We followed our uptrack from the previous day for a while, but then set off on a more direct route for the village. Ellen, Seth, and I (Rachel) needed to catch a bus back to Sion, and then the train to Lausanne (Rachel) and Geneva (Ellen and Seth).
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| Surprisingly we found directional signs. I guess we were on the right track. |
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| Approaching a high mountain summer hut, used while cows are grazing in the mountains. |
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| Old summer lodging for shepherds. |
We made it to the Hotel Glacier in time to enjoy a beer before catching the bus. While I went off to my conference, Karl and Art (and for one more day, Ellen and Seth, who couldn't stay away) enjoyed four more days of skiing. Perhaps one memorable highlight was the "No Goats" route to Cabana des Dix hut, which involved navigating a 20 meter (60 feet) ladder over a cliff.
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| Ellen descending the "No Goat" ladder. |
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| Karl making the critical "Hillary Step" moving from one ladder to the next. |
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| Having successfully navigated the critical step, Karl descends. |
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| Ellen and Seth below the "No Goats" ladder. |
It was an incredible time in Arolla. We will certainly return in the years to come.
A few days later, we all met up again in Geneva. Ellen and Seth provided generous hospitality in their flat in Geneva. We had a wonderful dinner, conversation, and a tour around old town Geneva the following morning before setting off for the airport and our return to Norway. Thank you to Seth and Ellen for their generosity and great times together!
